The following information was written by CBRRydah of The Nex Level out of that madd South Jerzee and sent to the MC community by Seven of DoubleLyte Posse. This info was drafted after a TNL member went down and was seriously injured. I ask that no one take this as another rider trying to be the duty expert to the bike world, but as sincere information that could help a new or seasoned rider think about some important aspects of bike riding. Read it to remain healthy,…read it to stay alive!
“They say that once a rider hits the pavement, he or she is never the same. I hope that’s true. I hope we are all BETTER when ANY ONE OF US dismounts the bike unconventionally. Be safe, people. It isn't even April, yet, and already there has been so much tragedy. Please, be careful, and slow down. Regardless of what the temperature rises to, the road surface does not heat up as quickly as the outside air. The tires on our bikes are not designed to grip cold surfaces well. Different tires have differing warm-up characteristics. For instance, consider the following tire choices:
1. Bridgestone BT-010 (Quick warm-up / great traction at operating temp)
2. Michelin Pilot Sport (Slow warm-up / excellent traction at operating temp)
What does this mean? I'm glad you asked! While the Pilots may be a vastly superior tire when warmed up to operating temperature, it takes longer to heat them up to the point where they can function effectively. Before reaching this temperature, the Pilots will be less than "grippy" on most surfaces, and can be dangerous on certain surfaces. The Bridgestone, on the other hand may not be as "superb", when both tires are at operating temperature, but will offer more traction, "cold", than will the Pilot, allowing the rider to operate the bike with more confidence, more often. Other factors, which impede traction, are commonly found on post-winter roadways. Salt, sand and dirt are commonly used to melt snow and ice in winter, leaving a gritty, traction-robbing coating on the asphalt. These will not disappear until after a few good rains wash them away. We all enjoy the thrill of exiting corners on the gas, and inhaling roadways with the awe-inspiring power similar to a catapult on an aircraft carrier. Just be ever mindful that some dangers, which were not present at the end of the season, last year, are VERY present at the beginning of the season, this year. Why did I write all of this? I HAVE NO IDEA!!! No, really...I'm sick of writing "Best wishes" emails, knowing I didn't tell "whoever" something that may have kept his or her name out of a "best wishes" email. Perhaps we should each pass around knowledge we have acquired, that it may help the entire body to stay strong, and not suffer any more loss. Lets stop the destruction."
Yes! The brother is dropping mad science that all should have at the forefront of the mind at the start of each riding season. An experienced rider will tell you that there are two types of riders, "those that have gone down and those that are going to go down". This is something I think about every time I'm on my 12. In fact, to be honest, I'm actually fearful at times, however, I use this fear as a check and balance to keep me in line when I'm out twisting the 12,...so it doesn’t get me twisted up in the hospital or worst. Another thing that keep me mindful is the luv I have for my kids and the desire to be there for them. I know everyone has there time, but I certainly prefer it not be something stupid on a bike if it’s the Lord’s will. So with that, I ask the bike world be ever mindful of everything around them when you are out on your bikes. You are loved and you are certainly needed by someone you know. JMD
Prophecy Road Tips
Tip #1 – Your bike: Check it out. Don't just look at it. Use the "T-CLOCK" routine and check the following before each ride:
T - Tires & Wheels: Condition and air-pressure, freaking nails, etc.
C - Controls: Levers, cables, hoses and throttle (is it sticking)
L - Lights: Condition, cracked lenses, etc (do they freaking work properly)
O - Oils: Level, leaks, etc; coolant level (top it off, aiight!)
C - Chassis: Frame, steering head, suspension, etc
K - Kickstand: You either have one or you don't (J )
Tip #2 - Things to consider taking with you when you ride-out:
- Money (cash works best), credit card,…leave the movie rental card at home
- Cell phone, with a fresh battery charge
- Tire plug repair kit, the cost is about $6.00 at any auto parts store. Some may not want to plug a punctured tire. Ok, that's fine, now try pushing that heavy @ss bike a mile or two in 90+ degree weather. At least one rider should have a regular automotive grade tire plug kit. I vividly recall assisting two riders that caught nails in their rear tires. They were very thankful to be back on the road instead of making a tow truck call. Whether you replace the tire later is up to you.
- 1 extra headlight bulb, 1 taillight bulb and a couple of extra fuses - 10-15-20 amp ratings
Tip #3 - Never jump on your bike cold minded. Today's sport bikes are incredibly powerful from the little 600cc to the awesome 12 and 'Busa. It's often said that one should put their thinking cap on before doing complex thinking. One should put their riding cap on before getting on any of today's powerful streetbikes.
Tip #4 – Tip for hot days. Be sure to place a bike saver pad under the kickstand when parking on asphalt. If you don't one day you will certainly know why. At a minimum, you may want to keep a flatten aluminum can with you as it works just fine and is damn near free.
Tip #5 - P-Tip #4 is a must when parking in grass or sand.
Tip #6 - When riding, learn to read the road ahead in order to react accordingly. Motorcycles and gravel do not get along - You better believe it.
Tip #7 - In traffic, try to always leave yourself an "OUT". That's where I'll go if things get ugly!
Tip #8 - When riding in cold temps, be especially careful of applying too much torque to the rear wheel when making a turn after a stop. Traction is significantly decreased when a tire is cold vs. a tire that is warm or hot.
Tip #9 - From EZ of Bad Boyz 4 Life of NC/VA - Allow bike to warm up for at least 2 minutes to prevent plugs from fouling.
Tip #10 - From EZ of Bad Boyz 4 Life of NC/VA - When in a curve, don't get fixated on the curve,...in other words, he's saying, look through the curve and the bike will follow the path your eyes have set. If you look directly in front of the bike, that's exactly where the bike will go - straight ahead. Remember that your life depends on you becoming an experienced rider knowledgeable of the following which is considered by most to be motorcycle riding 101, and that is: Slow, Look, Lean and Roll,...on the throttle. Most riders get it right 99% of the time. The 1% of the time when we get it wrong is when we end up in the weeds, the ditch, or run wide and cross over the centerline,…possibly clipping another vehicle. Slow, Look, Lean and Roll. Ride by it, Live by it!
Tip #11 - Closing speed. What is it? Closing speed is the speed at which a rider closes in on whatever is in front of him,...or her. Closing speed probably gets more riders in trouble than anything else. A quick explanation. First, all sportbikes are capable of mind-boggling speed when it comes to using them on the street. So, the closing speed rule applies to the 250cc, the 9's, 12s and Busa's and of course modified bikes on happy-gas or a turbo. When on the street, a rider often looks down the street and sees nothing but daylight, and ((((BAMM)))), in an instant, it's on. Warp speeds occur in 2 - 3 seconds, 4 seconds max. Now that you are covering 88-feet in 1 second or less, you feel quite good and remember to breathe as you ease off the throttle. The problem most don't realize is that they are still closing in on that object in front of them (most likely a car or dump truck) at speeds more than the posted speed on that roadway and this is where things can become bad for the rider real quick. They often panic and push back from the clip-ons (first mistake) as it causes the rider to not be able to brake properly and it also causes the classic case of "the throttle got stuck" phenomenon. Why? Because when a rider panics, some push away from what they think they’re going to hit and in doing so, the pushing back causes the rider to add more throttle and the bike takes off again. WHAT THE RIDER SHOULD DO IS TRY TO KEEP HIS OR HER BODY LEANING FORWARD AND BRAKE HARD TO SCRUB OFF SPEED, keeping the bike as straight as possible. Lastly, even it you hit the object or vehicle, the more speed you scrub off, the better off your @ss will be. Of course there is a remedy to this, and that is to always be your own safety advocate by constantly thinking of consequences if you "hit the throttle hard" in a place where you shouldn’t. I ask everyone, especially new riders, to be ever mindful of this question, "What will happen if I do this, or that car does that?"
Tip #12 - If you haven't already, you may want to consider the "Ninja Braking" technique. Basically, since the front brakes of sportbikes are so freaking powerful, they can cause a rider to perform an unwanted endo if they panic and grab a big-old hand full of front brakes. Most sportbike riders apply pressure to the front brakes using two fingers (the fore and middle finger), hence called "Ninja Braking". Disclaimer: Before I get blasted by someone concerning this Tip, just remember that I know this works for me and if you are uncomfortable or disagree with this Tip, I ask that you use the braking technique that works best for you. I think we can all agree that the key to safe braking from a high rate of speed is to not panic.
Tip #13 - There are no expert riders, (MHO), only good riders that have learn how to keep it on two and between the lines over the years by applying everything they know about riding a motorcycle on a second-by-second basis when they are on their bikes. Take time to get use to your bike again, though you may have been riding for 6 months of the last season or for many years. It is always best to get use to your bike each new riding season instead of hopping on it and kicking in the after-burner five seconds later. Lets allow time for those on four or eighteen wheels to get use to us being out there doing our thang again.
Tip #14 – Forthcoming!
Have a good tip? Send it to our Webmaster. We'll give credit where credit is due.
Prophecy Tech Tips
Tech Tip #1 - When performing routine maintenance on your bike, ensure all nuts and bolts are tightened to the manufacture's specifications. Do not over torque nuts and bolts, as this may cause undue stress on bike components.
Tech Tip #2 - When installing aftermarket headlight bulbs, be aware of the bulb's wattage rating. A bulb with a high or in some cases, extreme wattage rating may provide better lighting at night, however, they may also cause your bike's electrical system to have a serious melt down,...away from home,....at night. You have been warned!
Tech Tip #3 - Do not exceed your bike's fuse ratings when adding aftermarket bike accessories. This too may cause a severe electrical "overload" prior to the fuse blowing if something goes wrong.
Tech Tip #4 - Using black vinyl tape. Personally, if you're a true do-it-yourselfer with any pride, you should have out-grown black vinyl tape by now and come to recognize that it should only be used under emergency situations. A real electrical do-it-yourselfer uses proper crimp-on connectors. This shows you express desire to maintain good electrical integrity throughout your bike as well as a cleaner looking job. Black tape is for non-riders and hackers. Crimp it down - Aiight!!
Tech Tip #5 – Increasing bike confidence. You can increase the confidence level (the handling feel) by making small incremental adjustments in your bikes suspension. I remind you to seek professional advice if you have no clue what I’m talking about. Quite simple, the more taut the suspension, the better the road feedback, the more confidence you will feel. The softer the suspension, the lower the confidence level one has as he enters and exits curves. Don’t believe me, then try this. Drive your father’s Oldsmobile, now drive a BMW ///M3. FEEL the difference? Now tell me you didn’t have a big-old @#@$@-eating grin on your face while driving the ///M3. The same affect can be had with your bike if it’s setup properly. Note: Some bikes already have ///M3 like handling, IMO, they are the honorable Kaw ZX-7R, the new Gixxers; 600, 750, 1000, and Yamaha’s R6 & R1. Even so, their handling can also be improved with skillful adjustments to the suspension.